Captain Bill's Memoirs
Thanks to the swashbuckling ladies …
In 2011, I was recruited to lead those ladies and brother as my crew through sailing paradise called the BVIs which is affectionately called “Nature’s little secret.” There the conditions are perfect, 80 degree water and air, islands with accommodating harbors and below the surface is a virtual aquarium.
So there I was due to my special skills of a boat captain, employed by two sisters Dorothy and Carol to fulfill their brother Andy’s dream of Caribbean treasure as birthday gift and… the 120th year of the writing of the book “pirates and their treasure” better known as the infamous “Treasure Island.” Prior to the adventure, I suggested not only the Stevenson story but the more adult Pirate Latitudes book by Michael Crichton. He wrote this swashbuckling yarn in 2008 about Capt Hunter and his exploits for Spanish gold set in 1665. Steve Spielberg is planning a movie. Daughter super swimmer Natalie is our final crew member signing up. Where else but the virgin islands of the Brits the crew of five rendezvous at Nanny Cay harbor to charter a sloop for our journey.
Andy and I depart from O’Hare non-stop on American to San Juan Puerto Rico and then a 30 minute flight on a 30 passenger two prop to Beef Island on the east end of Tortola the main island. That night at dinner May 15, 2011, the weather was a harbinger for our next 7 days… a stormy night. The sisters had our vessel, a Beneteau 36 ft cruiser Perelandra, well provisioned and decorated properly… flags of the Jolly Roger throughout. Stocked with the pirate beverage of choice: rum. As pirates sing: “Yo Ho Ho and a bottle of rum, drink and the devil will…. When I was seven, the Stevenson book inspired a dream; I had found the chest of gold and stuffed coins into my pockets. When the pirates returned I ran but they shot me as … waking abruptly sans gold and bullet hole.
(Now let us go to the deck of Perelanda in the present tense.)
Day 1 (Sun.) After a fine breakfast at the nearby open air restaurant, we embark on our trip the vessel prepped and dingy ready... Captain Bill orders... “Cast off all lines; hoist the sails, full speed ahead.” The sisters point the south direction, 6 miles to Norman Island aka… the famous R L Stevenson’s Treasure Island with their map well defined… X marks the spot. Within an hour the Bight harbor is in view and our vessel secured to anchor ball. “Drop the boats”…a two woman kayak and the motorized rubber dingy, on to the caves of Treasure Point to search for “gold.” And “gold” we found however not in the wave tossed open-to-the-sea caves now robbed of any man made treasure but gold in the form of nature on the shore and in the misty spirits between the volcanic hills where 200 years prior actual pirates did live and bury their treasure. There on the shore the sisters created a stone monument… Happy Birthday Andy … for all visitors. Snorkeling to a former treasure cave I spot a 4 ft long barracuda 8 feet below the surface guarding the cave entrance. (His name must have been Long J. Silver.)
This Treasure Island has a hill properly named Spy-glass and a floating restaurant, the Willy T. which provides our late mostly fish dinner. Twelve or more rubber dinghies like ours are tied to the floating platform. On shore was a properly named diner called Pirates.
Day 2. (Mon.) Under sunny skies, hauling in mooring lines after breakfast we sail north and then east up the breath of the famous Sir Francis Drake channel. The British Vice Admiral was so honored by Queen Elizabeth I in 1588 with knighthood and his name to this body of water. Drake was the second person to circumnavigate the world in 1580 and was second in command of the English fleet to defeat the Spanish Armada. The Caribbean was his nautical workplace attacking Spanish gallons of their treasures on the way back to Spain. We sail past the islands called: The Indians, Pelican, Peter, Dead Chest, Salt, Cooper, Ginger, and fallen Jerusalem. Dead Chest is the island in Treasure Island where Long John Silver marooned 15 men due to mutiny. (I think Treasure Island was more of a non-fiction book.) We sail 18 miles to the big island of Virgin Gorda which was named by Christopher Columbus as the “fat virgin.” Conditions are rather rough and windy and red warning flags on the shore to warn of waves breaking on the shore. I choose the safe harbor of Spanish town which offers close proximity to the natural exotic giant rock formation called the Baths. Down with the small boats to paddle and motor to the wave tossed shore south home of giant granite boulders. Securing the dingy to the offshore dingy line and donning our snorkel gear swimming to the sandy beach. The rocks of the Baths are indeed Awesome in size ala Jurassic Park, and oval shapes up to 40 ft diameter randomly toppled upon one another, creating secret rooms, pools, sun lit spas in a natural variety of geologic rounded shapes. They are home to exotic fish swimming within their natural aquariums.
Back to the boat and nearby showers to freshen up. We prepare a delicious salmon steak dinner on our stern rail grill. A shower and lightning in the heavens, no worry the boat has a leaky bimini and we are in paradise.
Day 3. (Tue) A sunny morning allows an early start 6 miles to the west to party harbor of Traverse Bay of Beef Island on the east end of Tortola. Again we all take turns at the big wheel of Perelanda crossing the wide Sir Francis Drake channel. Noon is almost too late to secure a mooring as over 100 vessels at anchor to await the famous Full Moon party, held rain or moonshine. Again the sisters swim like mermaids in the peaceful warm waters of the bay. Later we scout out the venue of moonies in our bloodthirsty pirate costumes. This will be the 85th party here as an excuse to dance, eat, and party. As the sun sets the Fireballs are set, stilt walkers prance, and as the rainy season starts with a light drizzle.
The 9 person fungi band starts the music and the 100 want-a-be pirates start to eat, drink, and dance a la tribal ceremony in the sand and rain. What a party! Congo lines and Capt. Bill’s limbo stick. We depart the festivities just as a wet downpour tries to dampen our warm spirits.
Day 4. (Wed) Sunny again to allow exploration and snorkeling on nearby Marina Cay where we secure the boat with the anchor for the first time. The tiny cay hosts a hotel and where Two on the Isle was filmed. Natalie encounters jellies which cause skin sores if touched. On to Monkey Point on Camanoe Island. However the wind increases to 20kts and gusty. Our anchor snags a fragile coral reef and breaks loose a huge chunk disabling the anchor. Capt Bill valiantly hacks the coral which is critical to future anchoring and avoiding law enforcement. Escaping the Monkey business zone, we set both sails and cruise 9 miles west along the north shore of Tortola. Again the wind increases and off of Windy Point the gals helm the boat heeling at an exciting 25 degrees.
On to peaceful Cane Garden Bay harbor we discover a wonderful cruisers’ destination of Myett’s Garden Inn resort and restaurant overlooking the harbor and the sunset behind the isle of Jost. And what a gift shop! We spend half our booty. Also a convenient Bobby’s food store for provisions. The marina provides refueling and fresh (washing/shower) water for 20 cents per gallon.
Day 5. (Thur.) Full sun again all the day as we sail 4 miles west to the uninhabited island called Sandy Cay. We anchor successfully in the lee of the two acre mini-jungle home to lizards, toads, birds, and cactus. Andy, Dorothy, and Capt. Bill took the jungle path around the island interior. Later we attempt to moor for the night at nearby Great Harbor of Jost but all mooring balls are taken by late afternoon so back to Cane Garden and our favorite Myett’s shore side resort.
Day 6. (Fri) Sailing back 6 miles to Jost Van Dyke and securing the Perelanda to a mooring in Great Harbor allows us to explore in the rain to nearby White Bay. This perfect beach bay is home to the famous bar the Soggy Dollar. However after a few minutes the heavens opened and everything and everyone become soggy. Our favorite option… we went snorkeling. I spot a sting ray flying below me. And so the gals suggest the obvious: Capt Bill and his Soggy Crew! Little did we know, more rain would come. That night we joined 70 other would be pirates to hear Foxy entertain and overwhelm with dinner and drink. Capt Bill has his ever smiling crew sign the boats’ burgee, red and blue and properly secured to the ceiling of Foxy’s immense collection of memos from nautical visitors.
Day 7. (Sat.) If a squall hitting the boat in open water had to challenge our crew, better to visit after some experience than on day one. Departing from the gregarious island of Jost the clouds thickened and on a close reach 6 miles back south to the west tip of Tortola. As we approach Steele Point, the winds, waves, and rain increase in intensity. I call for the jib sail to be fully furled and run on motor power alone. I knew the harbor of Soper’s Hole offers protection from the storm. We easily secured a mooring ball thanks to Dorothy the swimmer, and as the rain stops, we motor our dingy to the docks for a tour of this interesting outpost.
After lunch the weather clears with bright sun and sailing east towards Nanny Cay, we realize only 4 miles away our last chance to swim with the fishes at the Indians. Just west of Pelican Island is a stand of four jagged pinnacles which reach 50 ft off the bottom to 30 ft above the surface. From a distance in the setting sun these reddish rocks look like an Indian chief feathered headdress. Here is the opportunity we were searching for. Like old salts, we snatched a mooring ball, don our snorkel gear and over we dive to the warm Caribbean. The underwater sites were fantastic which my underwater camera later reveals. The sun brightened colorful coral, thousands of neon tetras, and hundreds of fish in schools are like our personal aquarium. Carol and Natalie circumnavigate the nearby Pelican Island swimming in 30 minutes. We sail back to Nanny Cay and celebrate the voyage with a joyful farewell dinner for “Capt Bill and his Soggy Crew.”
The next day Sunday the gals fly out back to America homes. Later, weather records show this was the rainiest week in the BVIs since the previous October. When and where is the next adventure?